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Skincare ingredients to avoid when micro-needling!

Updated: Jan 3, 2023

One of the most common questions I get asked is "Can I use this product before/during/after micro-needling?"

If you've watched any of my videos on micro needling, you'll know my position on this! I'm not a conservative person by nature but with skincare I take no risks!! With microneedling, in particular, we're creating micro-channels in the skin to facilitate product penetration and encourage our cells to communicate more effectively. In addition, with medical needling [a.k.a collagen induction (CIT) therapy)], we're going deeper (.5mm+) to encourage the stimulation of new collagen. In any case, micro-needling physically disrupts the skin's barrier - which is fine as long as we're super careful about how we treat our skin during this vulnerable period.

Apart from being scrupulous about hygiene before, during and after micro-needling, (see my needling protocol video here, I'm ultra conservative about what and what NOT to put on the skin during while needling and recovery.

I'll keep it really simple, whether I needle at .2mm or .5+, the only product I use on my face is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. My favourite is Cos de BAHA Hyaluronic Acid. When nano needling or cosmetic needling (.3mm or lower) I'm happy to follow up with my favorite skincare to 'infuse' those great ingredients. The ingredients I AVOID, however are on this list.

After medical micro-needling (CIT) I have a protocol that I follow closely - those deeper channels create micro-wounds and they require special care during the healing process. Please be sure to view my protocols video here

Penn Smith Skincare is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate program. Many links are affiliate links, meaning I am compensated when you shop through these at no extra fee to you.

High risk with needling:

*Diethlhexl Phthalate (DEP)










*Lavender Oil



Some preservatives to avoid with needling:

*Limonene (photosensitivity can occur so use caution with this ingredient)

*Benzyl Alcohol





*Triclosan Benzalkonium

*Chloride Benzophenone

Surfactants to Avoid with needling:

*Sodium Laureth Sulphate

*Sodium Lauryl Sulphate

*Ammonium Laureth Sulphate

*Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate

*Benzalkonium Chloride



Humectants to avoid when needling:

*Butylene Glycol

*Diethyene Glycol

*Pentylene Glycol



*Sorbitol Trioleate

Emollients to avoid when needling:


*Mineral Oil






FTC: Links in this post are affiliate ~ Please note that all links on this page are affiliate and I participate in the Amazon Associates program which is an affiliate program. Any time you see an Amazon link it is affiliate. If you choose to use my links please know that I appreciate it!

Disclaimer: This post is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Content provided on this blog is for informational and entertainment purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or skin related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this website should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare/skin professional. The statements made about specific products throughout this website are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease. It is important that you check labels to determine if a product is right for you. Before starting any treatment at home consult a health care or skin care professional to determine if it’s right for you.

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4 commentaires

25 sept. 2023

Hello from sunny 🌞 Florida

First of all, I love your videos been watching them for a while learn so much specifically when you do demos. I have a question about your microneedling series. You mentioned the depths but not what type needles. Can you fill us in on that,? Thank


08 avr. 2023

honestly, Penn Smith has the best straight-forward clear and safe presentations. If you visit a doctor or "professional" for services, you will know if you have a good one by first being educated with Penn Smith resources. I get teary just reflecting how Penn Smith has given me knowledge for better care and practical real solutions.


Tanya De'Marco
Tanya De'Marco
21 avr. 2022

You're amazing Ms Smith!! Love your blog and your youtube channel!! I was looking for alternatives to hyaluronic acid, (since it is seriously expensive to have it delivered to my address and not available in my country) and someone said to use glycerine, but I learned from you that that's a bad idea. So thank you very much and if you have any suggestions of alternatives to use as slip with the dr pen I'd appreciate it please 😊 xoxo


25 juil. 2021

Thanks for the great blog. There are several dr pen websites which would you recommend is the authentic seller? Thanks

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